Natural emulsifiers play a core role in personal care products, especially with the growing consumer demand for mild and sustainable formulations. Simply put, an emulsifier is a "bridging molecule" that allows oil and water to mix stably, while natural emulsifiers further emphasize plant-based sources, low irritation, and environmental friendliness. In In 2024, the global personal care emulsifiers market size reached $565.1 million and is projected to grow to $799.6 million by 2033, with a CAGR of about 4.1%. This growth is primarily driven by the market’s increasing preference for natural emulsifiers such as AC-M68, which continue to gain a larger market share by fulfilling the simultaneous demands for clean labels, mildness, and enhanced formulation efficacy.

Natural emulsifiers, such as non-ionic types like alkyl glucosides, are becoming increasingly vital in personal care for their sustainability and mildness, with the market expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of around 4.1% by 2025, driven by applications in skincare and haircare products that prioritize eco-friendly formulations.

Types and Properties of Natural Emulsifiers

From a chemical perspective, all emulsifiers rely on an amphiphilic structure—a hydrophilic group (water-loving) and a lipophilic group (oil-loving). Emulsifiers can be divided into four major types based on their ionization characteristics, with each type varying significantly in structure, advantages, disadvantages, and application.

The table below visually presents the core characteristics of these types:

Among these types, non-ionic emulsifiers like AC-M68 stand out due to their zero-charge characteristic. They carry no electrical charge, avoiding the irritation or discoloration issues that ionic types might cause, while also being resistant to acids, alkalis, and electrolytes. They are stably compatible with various active ingredients (such as fruit acids, Vitamin C) and thickeners.

Core Definition and Natural Advantages

The reason natural emulsifiers have become core ingredients in modern personal care formulations is fundamentally due to their redefined balance between "safety" and "efficacy." Taking AC-M68 (INCI name: Cetearyl Glucoside & Cetearyl Alcohol) as an example, this complex composed of Cetearyl Glucoside and Cetearyl Alcohol is essentially a non-ionic O/W liquid crystal emulsifier—meaning it carries no charge in water, acting like a harmonious coordinator that never clashes in a crowd, gently and stably biXnding oil and water together.

Its CAS numbers (246159-33-1 & 67762-27-0) signify strict chemical identity certification, and the "liquid crystal" property is its very soul: when the emulsifier molecules form an ordered lamellar arrangement at the interface, it is like giving the emulsion a "molecular armor" that not only prevents oil droplets from aggregating but also actively helps repair the skin barrier.

From a chemical structure perspective, the revolutionary aspect of natural emulsifiers lies in replacing traditional ethoxy chains with natural polysaccharides. Although traditional polyoxyethylene non-ionic surfactants are widely used, they have pain points such as cloud point phenomena (precipitation upon temperature increase), slow environmental degradation, and potential residual ethylene oxide. AC-M68's glucose hydrophilic head group is directly derived from plants and is produced through a one-pot melt glycosidation process (cetearyl alcohol + glucose + catalyst → dehydration reaction → filtration and granulation). The entire process involves no solvents, and the only byproduct is water, achieving truly "green synthesis."

This structural optimization results in a Natural Origin Index (NOI) of 1, meaning the emulsifier is entirely derived from plants, free from genetically modified (GMO) or animal-sourced ingredients. This 100% natural origin provides quantifiable safety assurance, making it suitable even for sensitive skin and baby care formulations.

The manifestation of natural advantages is not limited to raw material sourcing but extends to its biological compatibility. The table below compares the key differences between natural and traditional synthetic emulsifiers:

The natural advantages of AC-M68 are specifically embodied in three dimensions:

• Environmental Friendliness: Its polysaccharide structure is rapidly degradable in nature, and the carbon footprint is reduced by about 30% compared to traditional processes during production. The global personal care emulsifiers market reached $565.1 million in 2024, with the natural emulsifier segment growing rapidly, precisely benefiting from this "green attribute."

• Skin Safety: Due to the absence of ethoxylated residues, AC-M68 exhibits extremely high compatibility with the skin barrier. Clinical data shows that its formulation significantly improved Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) after 15 days of continuous use by 25 volunteers with dry skin, with no reported adverse reactions.

• Functional Versatility: The non-ionic characteristic makes it a "universal player," capable of stable compatibility with everything from Titanium Dioxide in sunscreens to Retinol in anti-aging formulations. Its liquid crystal structure also enables the slow release of active ingredients, such as encapsulating Vitamin C in the lamellar network to prevent rapid oxidation and deactivation.

Its chemical nature dictates broad applicability—for example, AC-M68's pH range is optimized to 5.5-7.5, matching the skin's natural pH, further enhancing its mildness. In contrast, while anionic types have strong cleaning power, they tend to "clash" with cationic ingredients in conditioners, leading to precipitation and limiting their application scope.

The tests show that only 0.5% of AC-M68 can emulsify 30% oil, far less than the 2-3% required for traditional emulsifiers. This efficiency is due to the stability of its ether chain structure.

Application Scenarios and Formulation Guide

The application of natural emulsifiers in the personal care sector is much more than "just mixing oil and water"—they are system solutions customized according to product efficacy needs. Taking AC-M68 (INCI name: Cetearyl Glucoside & Cetearyl Alcohol) as an example, its non-ionic characteristic and ability to form liquid crystals make it a multi-functional tool for formulators addressing sensitive skin, high moisturization, or active ingredient slow-release scenarios.

Skincare is the core battleground for natural emulsifiers. In high-moisturizing creams, AC-M68 simulates the human skin barrier through a lamellar liquid crystal structure, significantly reducing Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL). Test data shows that a formulation containing 5% AC-M68 significantly reduced TEWL within 1 hour in reconstructed epidermal models, and human trials further confirmed a significant improvement in skin barrier repair after 15 days of continuous use.

For anti-aging products, AC-M68's "reservoir"-style slow-release property can encapsulate active ingredients like Retinol or Vitamin C, reducing irritation while extending the duration of action. The following formula example demonstrates its basic framework:

In sun care products, AC-M68's non-ionic nature avoids charge conflicts with metal oxides (like Titanium Dioxide) or chemical sunscreens. Tests indicate that a formulation containing 5% AC-M68 can stably emulsify 5% UV absorber 1789 or nano Titanium Dioxide, achieving a viscosity of 8500-13500 mPa·s, with uniform particle distribution at 2-4μm, ensuring even coverage of the sunscreen film. Furthermore, its electrolyte tolerance makes it suitable for ocean-friendly sunscreens, preventing system separation after being washed by seawater.

Hair care and body care sectors also rely on the mildness of natural emulsifiers. In conditioners, AC-M68 is compatible with cationic surfactants (like 1831); tests show that a system formulated with 2.5% AC-M68 and 2% cationic agent achieves a viscosity of 12500 mPa·s and uniform particle size down to 1-2μm, indicating its ability to stably suspend conditioning ingredients without precipitation.

For shower gels or body lotions, AC-M68's liquid crystal structure provides a silky skin feel, avoiding the waxy texture of traditional fatty alcohols. Its biodegradability (100% aerobic degradation within 28 days) also aligns with sustainability concepts, making it suitable for eco-friendly positioned products.

Baby and sensitive skin products are an advantageous segment for natural emulsifiers. AC-M68's raw materials are GMO-free, non-animal sourced, and have an NOI=1, meeting clean beauty standards. Its pH is optimized to 5.5-7.5, matching the skin's natural pH, avoiding irritation.

In clinical tests, a formulation containing AC-M68 was used continuously for 15 days by 25 volunteers with dry skin, showing significant TEWL improvement and no reported allergies.

The key to formulation practice is the flexible adjustment of usage strategy.

Three-level application plan:

• Standalone Use (3-5%): Builds basic O/W emulsions, suitable for simple moisturizing systems. For example, a face cream requires only 3% AC-M68 to emulsify 20% oil and passes stability tests from -18°C to 50°C.

• Compounding for Synergy (1-3%): Enhances stability in complex formulations. Such as compounding with Retinol in anti-aging night creams, or synergizing with Titanium Dioxide in sunscreens; compatibility tests show it remains a clear solution in oil phases like GTCC and Squalane.

• Texture Adjustment (0.5-1%): Adding a small amount of AC-M68 can improve product spreadability. Its lamellar structure provides a silken texture without affecting the system pH or active ingredient efficacy.

The application of natural emulsifiers is not limited to traditional categories. AC-M68 can stably emulsify silicone oils (like 100cst Dimethicone) in makeup remover products, reaching a viscosity of 25000 mPa·s, demonstrating its high oil phase adaptability; and in active serums, it coexists with fruit acids and botanical extracts, with broad pH tolerance (3.5-7.5) preventing decomposition in acidic environments.

Green Production and Regulatory Compliance

The "green" attribute of natural emulsifiers is reflected not only in their raw material source but also throughout the entire production chain and compliance system. Taking AC-M68 as an example, its core process—one-pot melt glycosidation—directly subverts the traditional synthetic route for emulsifiers that relies on organic solvents. Specifically, this process first melts the cetearyl alcohol, then adds glucose and a solid superacid catalyst, conducting a dehydration reaction under vacuum, and finally filtering to remove the catalyst before granulation and packaging.

The entire process requires no additional solvents, and the reaction byproduct is only water, eliminating volatile organic compound pollution at the source, and reducing carbon emissions by about 30% compared to traditional ethoxylation processes. This "solvent-free design" not only complies with the EU Green Deal's requirements for chemical sustainability but also gives AC-M68 a significantly lower carbon footprint than comparable synthetic emulsifiers.

Another key indicator of green production is biodegradability. AC-M68's natural polysaccharide structure allows for 100% aerobic biodegradation within 28 days, and its degradation products are non-ecotoxic. In contrast, traditional PEG-type emulsifiers may produce persistent degradation products under anaerobic conditions, posing a long-term burden on aquatic environments.

In addition, AC-M68's raw materials are plant-derived (such as glucose and fatty alcohols derived from vegetable oil), and water consumption during the production process is reduced by more than 50%, allowing factories to achieve near-zero discharge through water recycling systems. These characteristics enable it to easily meet the "renewable carbon index" requirements of the EU Ecocert and COSMOS natural standards.

Regulatory compliance is the passport for natural emulsifiers to enter the global market. AC-M68's components (Cetearyl Glucoside and Cetearyl Alcohol) are registered on major global regulatory lists. The table below summarizes their compliance status:

These registrations not only signify legal usage but also provide a guarantee of traceability. For example, AC-M68's supplier, SOHO ANECO, has passed ISO 9001:2015 certification, ensuring quality control across the entire chain from raw material procurement to finished product delivery.

Furthermore, AC-M68's accompanying declaration documents (such as non-animal testing, non-GMO, Halal/Kosher certification) further help brands navigate market access barriers globally. In the EU, for instance, the Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 prohibits the use of animal-tested ingredients, and AC-M68's "Non-Animal Testing Declaration" can be directly used on product labels, avoiding trade disputes.

Stability and storage conditions are directly linked to compliance risks. AC-M68 has a shelf life of 2 years, but must be stored in a cool, dry place away from light; temperatures above 40°C may lead to an increase in hydroxyl value (oxidation risk). Manufacturers must verify its efficacy through accelerated stability tests (e.g., storage at 40°C/75% humidity for 3 months to simulate long-term storage), otherwise, product deterioration could violate national "Cosmetic Adverse Event Reporting Systems." For example, if the emulsifier spoils due to improper storage (Peroxide Value >0.5 mmol/kg), it may cause consumer skin irritation, triggering regulatory recall procedures.

In the future, the compliance focus for natural emulsifiers is shifting from "ingredient safety" to "full life cycle sustainability." For example, the EU's forthcoming Carbon Border Adjustment Mechanism may impose tariffs on high-carbon footprint raw materials, and AC-M68's solvent-free process and biodegradability will become core advantages. Simultaneously, the US FDA's revising Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) may require disclosure of the natural origin percentage of ingredients, and AC-M68's plant-derived data (e.g., glucose from non-GMO corn) can preemptively satisfy such requirements.